First of all I hope you both will forgive me my once
a week, at best, posting right now. My life is not in total upheaval but
between some emotional/personal wrenching, changes at work complete with brand
spanking new hires, half the storage and back stock space I had last holiday
season, and having to entertain the idea of piles of wine in the ladies room,
the full court press from sales reps and importers needing to get their own
ducks in a row and what has been a wonderfully full social calendar lately,
well I simply haven’t had the time to devote to this place and the handful of you
that come here to read, listen, lurk and feel me. It is a gift I never stop thinking
about, please trust me on that. I am sure I am craving and thinking about you
more than you are me but I can’t seem to muster more than the semi occasional,
nearly always, mindless scroll and blurt over on Facebook these days. Killing
me as that spot, while a fun outlet for my profound goofery, doesn’t bring me
one one thousandth of the joy that being here does, readers and comments or
not. Part of my whole being better to myself deal that I am building…or trying
to build in the spare 10 minutes a day I have to devote to it right now. Pisser.
Bugging me but not as much as another issue that has had me all arms folded and
mouth shut lately…
“Yes, I’m calling from Texas and I was wondering,
could you give me a recommendation for a red wine to serve with Thanksgiving?”
a friendly enough caller that I was thankful was a slow talker so I could stand
there hunched over trying to catch my breath seeing as I had to sprint across
the shop to answer the ringing phone. I did explain to the nice gentleman that
we wouldn’t be able to ship him any wine due to his state, (read controlling
asswads) doesn’t allow us to but I would be happy to offer some suggestions
anyway.
“Oh okay, well I am at the Target here in (insert
whereeverthehell Texas city here) and I was hoping you could help me pick a
wine from their selection here.” Sigh. Big huffy one actually. My mind was
whizzing about with, “What the hell dude? How did you get our number? Why are
you calling me? How can you have no idea how freaking nutty this is? You think
my boss likes paying us to share the knowledge, he paid us to acquire, helping
people spend their money somewhere else?” face scrunched into such a wrinkly
mess I must have looked like a big fat walnut standing there. I was able to
calmly (shut up, it was) clear my throat and say, “Sir, I honestly have no idea
what wines they have there at the Whatecverthehell Texas Target” which I
thought was pretty damned friendly for a sort of brush off. “Well it’s just
your standard stuff, Castle Rock and Estancia” he continues….humpf. “Sir, I can’t
help you. I don’t know those wines at all and wouldn’t feel comfortable giving
you a holiday recommendation, from the Target wine department seeing as I haven’t
had the wines in forever, if ever.” Once
I hung up I had one of those moments where I stand still for like 5 minutes
wondering if that actually really happened before I dash across the store, arms
flailing, back sort of arched in a “Oh no he did-int” fashion as I track down
whichever employee I can wrestle down first to share that story with.
Happened to be in Target, (don’t judge) a few days
later and made a beeline for the wine department. I think I was just more
curious than anything else and I have to say, at least in the Target I was
shopping in, there were fewer big brands like Estancia and more, sort of silly
labels. Lots of Mommy’s Time Out, Layer Cake, Ooh La La Pinot Grigio. I
strolled through the aisle, (there was only one at my Target) very few things I’d
seen before in front of me, feeling a little female pandered to, kinda cheesed
out and that was when I saw, Fancy Pants Cabernet Sauvignon…yes! I whipped my
phone from my bag and snapped a photo which I quickly uploaded to Facebook, you
know, to share seeing as I had of course shared the Texas Target story there,
with the caption, “Shopping the Target wine…depot”.
The whole thing stupidly cracked me up. The Texas
guy, my reaction, my staff’s response, just the wonder of human behavior that
is retail. The reason I posted the Fancy Pants Cabernet picture kind of a jab
at all of us, including myself. Got home to find that I was being taken
somewhat to task for “making fun of people that buy those wines”. Say huh?! I
found myself scrolling up and down trying to see what would make anyone think I
was mocking, there was nothing. It was merely the picture and the name that, in
my estimation, had someone else feeling defensive or feeling as if those wines
needed defending from the big bad French buyer lady. I was taken aback and
after hearing “I would bet that most imports in the $8-$12 price point are
factory made” when I had not once brought up, or even thought about imports,
well I fell into the protective mode of trying to figure out what I did that
was offensive enough to have someone
telling me, “If those wines get people to drink more wine than I am all for it”
and my own defensiveness responding, “I’m not convinced those wines do in fact
create more wine drinkers. In fact, I think they do more harm than good.” Which
just had us lobbing shit back and forth, and enough to pull some wanker in that
couldn’t wait to point the, “You are being defensive” finger at me. Kinda hard to defend yourself and not come off…well,
defensive. Especially to those that see every comment as loaded and from an
import specialist, a nip on the neck. Not very unifying that….
Felt the same kind of kerfuffle, discomfort and bile
loaded ugly offensively defensive crap when I read some of the reactions to a
Kermit Lynch interview in The New York Times Magazine. It’s like those waiting
to be offended folks were just aching for something to snarl about. Running each line through their tense
and sensitive meters looking for something to get their undies twisted about. I
read Tom Wark’s recap and it felt like we had just watched two different
movies.
I read those answers Kermit gave, an eyebrow raised
looking for those snarky and shitty comments I had heard swirling about and…um,
not so much. I read things like, “I find myself asking sommeliers, “where’s
that from?” it’s a treat. One of the most exciting things happening is
sommeliers turning customers on to new wines” I’m sure he meant French wines
and only French wines. He didn’t say anything even remotely like that but
whatever. Noticed the “Pop wines” reference that got everyone frothing and
seething and he didn’t once mention California wines in that part of the
answer, in fact Tom tacked on a piece of another answer to that part of the
recap which made it read that Kermit gave up on California wines because they
were “Pop wines”. I don’t mean to imply that it was misleading, nope not
implying at all, it was down-right misleading and funny there was no mention
about the part where Kermit said that not drinking wines that were a certain
alcohol percentage or higher meant you were missing out on great wines. Well
shit no, couldn’t include that because that mucks up the whole hater image.
To clear it up, Kermit said he gave up on California
wines when they started chasing scores, and even uttered a modicum of regret
that he had missed out on some great wines because of that, which to Tom’s credit
he did mention, as well as an appreciation for Kermit’s lack of dogmatic, “If
you aren’t drinking this way you suck” which was a nice breather. There was a final
bluster or rant about how higher alcohol, richly extracted wines sell and aren’t
going anywhere and I agree, nor should they if they sell and make people happy
but to completely ignore the fact that the more restrained and less rich wines
have also always sold, continue to do so and have a growing audience, and
increasingly so here in California amongst winemakers and consumers, well then
you are selling your agenda and maybe being a little defensive. Oh and one more thing, anyone looking to
Kermit Lynch for advice or commentary on the wines of California is “touched”.
Just as touched as anyone asking Charlie Olken or Steve Heimoff about French or
Italian wines. Go talk to Parker’s Wine Advocate, the Spectator, a great
retailer, (ahem) or some other publication that has specialist in each region. Kermit
has been a French wine advocate for 35 years. He is the reason those of us that
love, no, need French wines, drink as richly as we do and to waste his time
asking about California wines, even though he lives here in California, (also
lives in Provence, just saying) is just, well sort of shady. He isn’t an expert
on California wines, he doesn’t love them and personally I think pinning him to
the felt and using the looking glass to inspect him is an exercise in nut
tugging. Just as I would should someone pin Charlie on the wines of the Loire,
Alsace and Burgundy. Why are we all this way? Really? Can’t people like what they
like without someone else thinking it means we are calling their baby ugly?
Before anyone
starts thinking I’m making myself out to be some fucking patron saint of wine drinking
or appreciation, well just back on up off it. Just yesterday got myself tangled
in a rat’s nest of bullshit and side picking. Dammit...beginning to wonder if I
might need some industrial strength tape to press against my lips…to bind my
fingers.
Found myself scrolling once again. Lost in the
mindless flashes of kitty photos, memes, pictures of Pho and various political
reposting crap over on Facebook, (fuck, am I selling that joint or what?) in an
effort to not think about the go-jillion issues that have been pressing tightly
against my skull and chest. Arrow up, arrow back down, click the like thingie,
add an “LOL” where it applies. You can pretty much picture a drooling 5 year
old and have a pretty clear picture as to what much of my time wasting Facebook
stint looks like. That is until my puddling drool and thoughtlessness is
brought to a screeching halt by a picture of two bottles of wine, both
domestic, one Pinot Noir the other Grenache with a caption, “Two Burgundian
reds”…everyone out of the drooling pool! Read that and felt like someone had
slammed a 2x4 against the back of my skull. Literally felt like my brain
imploded. Burgundian Grenache? Um I’m sorry but…what the?!
So of course I commented. Did a “???? Grrr” thing to
start but goddamn it if I wasn’t sucked deeper into the lair of discontent.
Found myself arguing with people whom I don’t know and have never heard of,
(even the writer who posted I’ve only heard of via Facebook, never once has
anyone in my 17 years mention her and I’m sure in her world no one knows me) had
a newer blogger, (and someone that does it for fun, of course) tell me that I
should read his post about why people use the term Burgundian to describe Pinot
Noir, in an effort to straighten me out and got plungered into the spinning
cycle of defensiveness that seems to weirdly encapsulate this wine stuff. Felt
the fur on my neck getting all spiky with each, “Oh Samantha, you need to relax”
comment that made me feel like I was uptight for thinking using the term “Burgundian" for
Grenache, a variety not grown in Burgundy of course, is about as stoopid as “SonomaCoastian Chablis” and having a circle
of jerks make me out to be the asshole while not one of them answered my inquiry
about what Burgundian means and if it is the same as California Champagne?
Think that was a fair question…I mean if it is a style then it’s a style and by
using that term you just let me know you have much, much to learn about
Burgundy. There isn’t one style and if you mean restrained, elegant, feminine
or graceful…well guess what, there are other words that don’t fuck with the
consumer (and make them look silly when they ask for a Burgundian Grenache…as
opposed to what, a Bordelaise Grenache?) but once again when all the teeth left
their mark and the jerking was over I was left with the slippery stain of elitism
and snobbery because I am on “the other side”.
“What did you expect if you splash around in the
kiddie pool other than diaper rash? They are right Sam, you need to read that
bloggers post, it’s such an original idea that has never been discussed before
he came to the table and written about Ad nauseam, by you especially. Time to cash in that first ticket to the rodeo and stand your ground.You do
need a drink, might I suggest a glass of Burgundian Grenache? Why argue with
the noise? Use your unique voice and power, your draw, to pull the people, like
me, that are here waiting to hear.” The email in response to my sniveling and
fussing. A wine business friend that does happen to be on the same side but is
also one of the most fair and balanced humans I know. Like me he just wants us
all to find a way to talk, buy, discuss, feel impassioned by and drink wine. I
was tucked into his firm chest and cuddled by the comment, no matter how
shortly. The fact that I was tugged about in all sorts of directions just
reminds me how much I love this wine stuff. None of us have the right answers
for everyone. The trick, if there is one, is to kick some of the mud off the
path in an effort to make big broad steps and room for the next firm backed and strong hearted
bunch of pourers, talkers, writers and teachers…
Hopefully with a little less
offensive defensiveness, from both "sides"