“It’s not like all the Burgundy lovers all over the
world are just going to start drinking Oregon Pinot Noir or Bordeaux” my
response to a rather worried faced Burgundian that was, timidly explaining why
prices are going to take a spike upward and availability on our beloved wines
from the region is expected to be, for lack of a better term, tight. Four vintages, (2011, 2012, 2013
and now after some summer hail, 2014, although a warm dry summer may be helping a little) of seriously formidable weather, in some
severe cases losses of up to 80% of their crop in certain villages, have wedged
the Burgundians right between a rock and a very hard place. While there are
still gorgeous wines to get, with some winemakers saying that 2012 was one of
the finest vintages they’ve seen, in terms of quality, in a very long time but
with miniscule amounts of wine to share, and sell, the small farmers in the
region are left wringing their cracked, stained hands and being forced to raise
prices across the board just to keep afloat.
We heard it over and over again this past April as I
walked the woefully under-stuffed cellars in Burgundy, winemakers trying their
best to sound optimistic while also hoping to prepare us. The importer I was traveling with also fearful as she heard allocations, on even village level
wines, slashed by up to two thirds. Tasting through those stunning wines, the
pure expression of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the grim news of shortages and
higher prices couldn’t cloud the beauty of the wines or the spirit of the
gracious people of the region. I meant what I said to that small producer in
Aloxe-Corton, once you’ve fallen in love with Burgundy no other wine can do the
same things to and for you. No other wine can make you crave the way that
Burgundy does, make those tiny hairs on the back of your neck wiggle and stand
tall. There are wines the world over that, it can be argued, are just as good
but for those of us that hear the whisper of Burgundy and can feel it calling
us, only the wines from that tiny region can calm that stir…and fire us up
again. Pommard and Volnay may be more expensive than they were a few vintages
ago, that is if you can even find any before collectors gobble them up, but
there are still places to find Burgundian fruit with prices that won’t make
feeding that sexy Burgundy monkey on our backs quite so painful.
2012 Sylvain Pataille Marsannay ($41.99)
Marsannay is a village located at the northern end
of the Cote de Nuits, its most well-known neighbor being Gevrey-Chambertin, was
once only known for their production of Rose, not the case anymore, and it is
producers like Sylvain Pataille that are leading the way, and in many cases
surpassing those in villages with far more prestigious names. Loads of dark
fruit here, like black cherries but with some cola, roasted coffee and kisses
of soy. Flirty and supple on the palate with a wonderful bite of super-fine
tannin. Drinks far and above its appellation.
2012 Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Les Longeroies
($58.99)
Many have said that they believe Les Longeroies should
be elevated to Premier Cru status and it takes just a few spins in the glass to
figure out why. Deeper, darker, spicier, sprinkled with rose petals and crushed
red fruit. Full and sexy on the palate but with a vibrancy that keeps the wine
from feeling out of balance, or like it came from anywhere but Burgundy. I was
only able to get one case of this suggestive wine so grab it while you can.
Pataille is gathering a huge fan base, one that will nab this the second they
see it.
2011 Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay Les Longeroies
($34.99)
A very traditional Burgundy here, meaning lots of
savory notes interplaying with sweet roasted red fruits. A lighter Pinot Noir
on the palate with plenty of sassy green aromas and spice for days. Shows
better the longer it’s in the glass so decanting helps this juicy and delicious
Pinot Noir show all it has to give.
2011 Domaine Prieur-Brunet Santenay-Maladiere 1er
Cru ($35.99)
Such a pretty and elegant Pinot Noir. Gentle, tart
red cherries dance along the sides of this light and graceful wine. Plenty of
earthy flavors along with the red fruit, some mossy, mushroom and charred meat
flavors as well as a wonderful blast of not-yet-ripe strawberries. Lovely wine
for simple meals where it won’t have to fight big flavors. Drinking good now
but could improve with a year or two in the cellar.
2010 Domaine Berthelemot Monthelie ($37.99)
Showing a light texture but one completely packed
with sweet juicy black cherries, grilled meats, dark roast coffee and faint
bits of teriyaki. Lots of stuffing here for a wine with such a shy price tag.
The flavors are long, the tannin firm and the pleasure immense and the amount
of wine to get, tiny. Pick up a couple steaks full of marbling, toss them on
the grill pour yourself a deep glass of this wine and enjoy.
Posts
