“Samantha, I have three times come to see you here in Los
Angeles and even though you come to Champagne every year, you’ve yet to come
see me”
The taunting but earnest words from Champagne producer
Cyril Bonnet of Bonnet-Ponson on his last visit to California a couple of years
ago. The smirk on his, extremely handsome face assuring me that he forgave me
but the little poke at my side, it let me know that my overlooking had not gone
unnoticed.
He was right. I had been to Champagne probably four times
since we first met, and not too far from the little village his family domaine is
tucked into, Chamery, located in the Marne, district of Reims. There were zero
excuses and it was easily, and enjoyably fixable on my part. It was on my last
trip to France, that I carved out the time to make an appointment to visit my
dear friend Cyril Bonnet.
Last time I’d seen Cyril was here in Long Beach after
he’d lead an amazing Champagne event here at The Wine Country. Well, truth be
told, the very last time I’d seen him we had taken him, post Champagne event,
to a Long Beach institution, The Interlude. A dive bar that is exactly what it
sounds like it would be. Basically, where hope goes to die. We celebrated his
graceful and elegant performance by buying him shots of Tequila Blanco and
pouring him into an Uber that whisked him off to his hotel near LAX where he
was to catch an early flight to the east coast the following morning. Hoping he
had somehow found a way to forgive me, I made the call and we piled in the car.
I had to muscle past a whopping 413 people to make my way
to Champagne Bonnet-Ponson where I found the final village total, Cyril and his
Grandfather, numbers 414 and 415. Four Americans plopped out of the car and
there he stood in front of his modern looking, still under some construction
family winery, the stunningly handsome, talented and incredibly sweet Cyril
Bonnet. I heard my fellow female traveler take in a hard, sharp breath when she
saw him, big gorgeous grin, swatch of wavy brown hair, “See. Told you. Wait
until you taste his wines!” I whispered in her direction.
We spent a couple hours there with Cyril and a couple of
other drop in visitors. We got the “tour” which is to say we plodded around the
tiny winery tasting a few things from tank, a couple more from the bottle,
before making our way to the tasting room where we tasted through a dizzying
array of bubbles as well as his Coteaux Champenois, the still Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay he makes, sadly just for the tasting room, for now anyway. Once
again I was floored by the quality being offered, especially when you consider
the fact that they are all from 1er, or Premier Cru vineyards, grown and made
by the same family that is splashed across the label. Beautifully structured, classic
Champagnes made by the most delightful people. Winning all around.
N.V. Bonnet-Ponson 1er Cru Brut $52.99
Made from equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and
Chardonnay this perfectly balanced Champagne offers charming roasted stone
fruits, pears and cream dunked biscuits all over the palate. Nice and plump in
the mouth with nice depth and long creamy finish.
N.V. Bonnet-Ponson 1er Cru Brut Rose $62.99
Made mostly of both Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with
Chardonnay making up the final 25%. A gorgeous deep pink Rose with powerfully
extracted red fruit aromas. The palate offers a evocatively inviting weight
with flecks of holiday spicing and warm buttered toast. Super long finish and
achingly tiny bubbles. Delightful with cold cuts, dark meat fowl and rich gooey
cheeses.