So as the house French wine specialist it falls to me to bring in the majority of the Roses that we have to offer at The Wine Country. This is not only my pleasure it is, thanks to the overwhelming response from all of our customers, my honor to take charge of the wall of “Pink” that greets them as they walk through the front door of the store. I assure you, for just as many wines as they see there just as many were rejected for being too simple, fruity, alcoholic or just plain weird and while I am sure I will find no sympathy I promise you, it is not so much fun to smell, taste and spit the wines that don’t make the cut. Even less fun having to explain to some bandwagoning supplier that their, just acquired....(because you know, everyone has to have a Rose now), Rose is flat, insipid and falls into the, "Are you stoned?!" pricing category compared to the wines we are already working with. Been in the Rose game far too long to be dazzled by some craptastic left behind. If the guys that "got it" before it was hip opted to leave it in France, well then chances are this buyer is going to let in get lost in your giant portfolio of just okay wines. Sorry....
I am asked every year, “Which ones are good?” or “Which is your favorite?” and as any good mother would, “They are all good and it would be too hard to pick a favorite” is what you will hear by way of a response from me. The wines are all good, wouldn’t be at the store if I didn’t truly believe that but as to which is my favorite, well like that mother thing, I might be fibbing a little.
Last year a few of our Saturday tasters as well as a chunk of my blog readers were let in on my favorite Rose, the Francois Chidaine Touraine Rose and once they tasted it we blew through the last available eight cases on the west coast, in less than a day and a half. It was unreal and while I was a tad bummed that I had let my Rose cat of the proverbial bag and there was no more for me to sip away on, I was thrilled that I was able to share that wine, my most beloved wine, with those of you that got that opportunity to try it.
So as it turns out, I have already found the Rose that makes my toes curl, far earlier this year than last year but sadly, it is just as limited, in fact...far more limited. Don’t you just hate that?! I spilled my guts for The Wine Country newsletter first this time. Got a sizable amount of crap last year from customers that were annoyed that my blog readers got first crack at the Rose that made me tingle and they didn't have the chance to even try it, so I caved. Gave up the goods to them first. The newsletter was sent out over the weekend, (and I'm trying not to take the holiday and the fact that they may not have had the chance to see it into consideration) which gave them two whole days of a head start so I shan't listen to any whining about playing favorites.
So last year the Chidaine was simply charming. A delightful little Rose that drank like it should have been far more expensive....even tasted it along side some wines twice its price and still preferred the Chidaine. Stoopid value that was simply delicious. This year however, it isn't a charmer that has stolen my heart...no, this wine reaches beyond the constraints of Rose and lands squarely in that seductive, contemplative and haunting category.
I had tasted the wine with my sales rep and ordered three cases for the store. I thought it was delightful and knew that it stood out from the others we had stacked in the front of the shop but....it wasn't until taking a bottle home, spending the night with it, letting it spill, splash and stain my palate that I could see just how serious a wine it was. Called my rep the "morning after" and secured five more cases. Didn't even care if they were going to be just for me. This wine had slipped beneath my skin and now every Rose I tasted after it, even my adored Tempier, tasted simple and like some of its parts were missing.
I've tried to restrain myself, tried to leave some for the rest of you and tried to give equal time to the other Roses I've brought in but, damn. Each sip of another just reminds me of what I'm missing and has me walking through the front doors of The Wine Country once again wrapping my fingers around the neck of the wine that won't let me be.....
The 2010 Clos Marie Pic Saint Loup Rose is one sexy beast of a wine that I shall covet until the last of the 25 cases that were imported to the west coast have vanished. At $17.99 a bottle I'm guessing that it won't fly like the Chidiane did last year. Guessing is the same as hoping right? A very serious wine that drinks even better, if you can stand it, on day two than it does upon opening it. I've twice resisted polishing off the bottle and been greatly rewarded for it but in the interest of true confessions, I greedily devour the saturated fruit, wet stones, striations of spice, curvy mouth filling weight in one gloriously satisfying sitting most times. Too serious to just suck back, too sexy to ignore, this is a wine that works both your palate and your head and I am deeply in love with it. But by all means, feel free to just ignore it, deem it too pricy or just another pink wine. It has a place to go, a palate that is waiting, wanting and ready......





16 comments:
After that description I want some!
I'm a Rosé lover of the highest order, and try almost every one that comes through the door of the wine store where I work. I've been disappointed recently by a Cali Rosé or two, but so far, by none of the French ones.
I bet there's no way in hell the one you write about here could ever find its way to the East Coast, but that's OK, I'll keep drinking the French Rosés I do have access to, and be grateful for the opportunity! : )
I'm going to at least ask. Maybe a case or two hopped a freight from California to Virginia.
Going to have to have a looksy to see if I can find it here. Because you know how I feel about the rosé.
I haven't cracked open my bottle of the Clos Ste Marie yet, so I have no reference for selecting a "rose of the year". I did, however, pull the corks of quite a few great tasting roses on Sunday--Domaine Saint André de Figuiere
Vieille Vignes, the luxury cuvee of Figuiere, Confidentielle, lots of Terrebrune Bandol rose and the rare Cassis rose from Clos Ste. Magdelaine. They were rock stars among the well-traveled, critical Francophiles I dined with, and all the bottles emptied very quickly. Jack McLaughlin's brandade in zucchini blossoms with light saffron sauce made each wine pass the food test with flying colors. Can your rose beat up my rose?
Wine Harlots,
Get some! Truly is one of those wines I wish everyone would try.
Kimberly,
My beloved Charlie is going to hate this but more often than not I am "Meh" on domestic Rose. There are only a handful, Zaca Mesa and Quivira being the two that pop to mind, that I think have the chops to hold up to the French ones. Have no idea if the Clos Marie is available on the east coast but I just so happen to work at a store that has a shipping department....just sayin'.
webb,
Like I just mentioned to Kimberly, shipping department.
Sara,
Oh girlie, I think you would adore this Rose! You are closer to the source so yes, try and find some.
Randy,
You always have the best dinner parties and I am ignoring the fact that I did not receive an invitation..(sniff). I'm dying for you to pop a bottle of the Clos Marie and hear what you think. I have a suspicion that it won't be your favorite because it is so serious and therefore not what you so adore about Rose....although the ones you popped on Sunday were no slouches. What ya waiting for? Suspense is killing me. Can my Rose beat up your Rose? Doubt is, my Rose is a lover not a fighter.
Languedoc - so in love with seeking out obscure wines from this region - and drank enough Pic Saint Loup last year to make me want to slurp up some of this Rose` style! Your blog has become my summer go-to wine guide. Cheers, lady!
Shipping department: present! Let me send you rosés and make you happy!
My Gorgeous Samantha,
I'm just glad your winning Rose isn't made from Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir rose has all the character of Taylor Swift--dull and flat.
I do want to try your killer Rose, Love. Wanna share a bottle at some romantic hideaway?
I love you!
Valerie,
Clos Marie has an almost cult status in the Languedoc and this Rose is simply insane. I've had another vintage and pretty much hated it, dark, meaty, chunky and damn near red in texture but this vintage? Fucking hot as hell.
Lisa,
Right? I so want people to try this friggin' wine....also want them to procure it at OUR store.
Ron My Love,
Deal Baby. Tell me when and I will be there, Rose in hand. I love you too!
I'd love to order some, but- alas- it's July in Georgia, and that bottle would be nothing but a superheated vial of pink gas by the time it hit my door.
Ron, Ron, Ron. What are we going to do with you? If you are talking about the 15% alcohol Pinot Noir roses which are bled off their red wines, of course they make lousy rose. On the other hand, if your Pinot Noir is grown in the cool climate and limestone soils of Sancerre, and its rose is made by a great producer like Vacheron, you get refreshment, tangy crispness and length. Serve it with a chilled poached salmon and a mustard-dill sauce for lunch. Use cloth napkins instead of paper towels this time. If you still don't like Pinot rose (from Sancerre), I'll just assume you're missing that chromosome and excuse you.
Randy,
No, I have more chromosomes than a hedgehog, and I'm twice the prick.
Samantha and I have been arguing this for a couple of years. I have had lots and lots of Roses from Sancerre over the years (not lately, I grant, because I gave up), and many other appellations, and almost to a bottle I find them insipid. I call 'em "stupid wines." Forgive me my prejudice. I allow Samantha to hate Zinfandel, and she allows me to hate Pinot Noir rose. Nobody's perfect.
I much prefer Rose from Grenache or Sangiovese or Mourvedre.
Ron, Up til now I thought you were perfect.
I knew insipid. Insipid was a friend of mine. It is no Vacheron.
Don't just sip the Sancerre rose by itself. You gotta do the food. That's why it's made that way. Honest, Ron. Don't give up. Nothing worth doing is easy.
Short of dunking yourself into the ocean, is there nothing more refreshing than a Rosé in the summer? The Clos Marie was wonderful! I hope you have a few bottles left!
Am enjoying a lovely Rosé (Ameztoi Rubentis) with some babyback ribs in my skivvies. Ahhh, the joys of being single.
Joe,
Such a bummer for you. Just so you know you can order whatever you wish and we can hold it for you until the heat passes....but then you might not want the Rose then huh? Sorry kid, it really is something else.
Randy,
Get him!
Ron,
Yes but the difference is My Love, Zinfandel is yucky.
Veronica,
Gotta agree with you and I am thrilled you liked the wine. Now I thought single time was for sweats and couple time is for the undies....my husband has been lying to me all these years.
Post a Comment